Every detector must be properly tuned in order to perform at its peak and provide maximum depth. In fact, the more powerful a detector is, the more critical the tuning becomes. Less powerful detectors are more tolerant of improper tuning, but are also not capable of the depth of a properly tuned high power detector such as the MicroMAX Diablo. To achieve peak performance from your MicroMAX Diablo, be sure to properly adjust the GROUND control. Remember: improper tuning will reduce performance and can also cause "false" and erroneous "ghosting signals".
Tuning your MicroMAX Diablo can be done in 4 simple steps:
Field Use
HANDLING YOUR DETECTOR
The detector should be held in a position that is comfortable for you as shown in the ADJUSTING THE POLE & SEARCHCOIL section. Swing the detector from side to side in about a three foot arc, overlapping succeeding strokes well. This motion is called a “sweep.” The MicroMAX Diablo was designed to get maximum depth without the frantic pace required of earlier motion detectors, so go at a pace that is comfortable for you. In fact, trying to hunt too fast may even cause a loss of depth in heavily mineralized locations.
Regardless of which mode you are using, try to keep your searchcoil height constant and close to the ground. Most people tend to raise the coil at the end of a sweep - much like a pendulum - especially if they are hurrying. Try to avoid this as any increase in height from the ground will cause a corresponding loss of depth.
In areas with well kept lawns, the easiest way to maintain a constant searchcoil height is to allow the coil to rest on the grass as you sweep from side to side. In rough and rocky areas it is best not to “scrub” the coil on the ground, as the rocks will act like abrasives, and wear away the coil bottom (an optional coil scuff cover will protect against this.) Sweep the coil as close to the ground as possible without touching. Hitting the ground or rocks may cause a false signal much like a desired target would. Sweeping the coil too high above the ground results in a loss of depth.
PINPOINTING A TARGET
When an object that may be gold is detected, you'll often want to determine if it is actually something worthless before you dig. With experience you will learn the different sounds the machine makes, and become skilled in the use of the HOT ROCK mode. If the object is shallow, and happens to be iron metal or iron mineral, a magnet may pick it right up without the need for any digging. If you detect something that seems large and deep, you may be tempted to say "probably just an old beer can". Better dig it anyway - a gold nugget large enough to masquerade as a beer can is worth thousands of dollars!
After you have determined that the object might be gold, you need to determine its location as precisely as possible, dig it up, remove it from the dirt, and indentify it.
Sweep back and forth over it left and right, then step around at a right angle from your first position and sweep back and forth again. You have now swept an "X" pattern over the object and can probably tell about where it is. If its location is still a bit fuzzy, as it probably will be with a large, deep object, crisscross the object again in pinpoint mode.
If the signal is very loud, position the searchcoil a bit to the side of the object, release the PINPOINT button, press the button again, and hold it as you sweep back over the object. This will narrow the response zone and make it more "crisp". If the object is very shallow, within 2 inches (5 cm) of the surface, pinpointing the exact location of the object may be easier if you raise the searchcoil up away from the surface an inch or two. Also, the position of a shallow object can often be determined more accurately if you kick away loose rocks or even move the dirt around a bit.
RECOVERING A TARGET
Dig it
If it is deep, you'll use a rock pick or other large, sturdy metal digging tool. If it is shallow and the soil is soft, a plastic trowel can be handier than a metal one because it's invisible to the metal detector. As you dig, occasionally check the hole to see if you have moved the object or already dug it. Some people like to just dig a big hole and spread the dirt around on the surface before checking it again with the metal detector. Another technique is to dig handful by handful and pass the handful of dirt past the searchcoil to see if the object is already in your hand. (The metal detector will probably "see" your hand faintly: you will have to mentally correct for the "hand effect".)
Remove it
Buried objects are usually dirty, and often covered with iron stains or otherwise discolored so that they are difficult to recognize. Sometimes a gold nugget comes out of the ground bright and yellow, but most often it will be difficult to recognize even when in plain sight.
If the object is a piece of iron or a "hot rock", a magnet will usually pull it out from any dirt you have dug. When you extract something worthless from the dirt, check the dirt again with a metal detector. What you removed may not have been what you detected. There may still be gold there.
If you haven't been able to remove the object from the soil by finding it with your eyes or a magnet, take a handful of dirt and slowly dribble it onto the searchcoil while listening and watching carefully. When the object falls to the searchcoil the metal detector will sound off. If you were paying attention, you'll probably see the object (which may look like a worthless stone or lump of dirt). If the object seems to have vanished, sweep over the spot with the metal detector to see if you can relocate the object.
Identify it
Once you have the object removed from the dirt, rub it a little, feel its "heft", hold it in the tips of your fingers and sweep it past the searchcoil with the mode switch in the HOT ROCK position and the HOT ROCK ADJUST knob set to zero. What do you see, feel, hear? Gold is yellow, heavy, and gives a "zip" sound when the HOT ROCK ADJUST knob is set to zero. The only other material that fits all three criteria is brass, but brass is recognizable by its shape, being a manufactured item. But the color of gold is often concealed by iron or clay coatings, or the gold maybe embedded in rock (esp. float gold). And if it's small or embedded in rock, you can't ell its weight by "hefting" it. If you are not able to positive indentify the object as being worthless, keep it and take it home. Once you get home, clean it up with a toothbrush and examine it further. If you still have doubt, ask someone more knowledgeable than yourself (someone you trust) to identify it. Until you are sure it's not gold, don't throw it out.
IDENTIFYING ROCKS IN THE AIR
This method is used to determine whether a rock which as been dug up contains gold.
- Set the Mode Selection Switch to HOT ROCK mode.
- Set the HOT ROCK ADJUST knob to zero; or, if you know the lowest dial setting that is ever required for nulling hot rocks that occur in your area, set it slightly lower than that setting.
- Sweep the rock past the searchcoil about 2 inches from the coil surface. If you get a positive "zip" sound, you probably have gold. If you get a negative "boing" sound, you have a hot rock that almost certainly contains no gold.
This method is far more reliable than any test that could be performed on a buried object before it's dug up, because this method doesn't have ground noise to overcome. Conductive hot rocks such as some types of pyrites will pass this test. The only way to distinguish conductive pyrite from gold embedded in a rock is to break the rock open till you find the whatever-it-is and identify it visually. But note: the most common pyrite, iron pyrite, which is common in many gold areas, is rarely conductive enough to cause a metal detector to sound off. If you break open a rock and find iron pyrite (a pale, slightly grayish brassy color) scan the pieces of the rock to see which piece has the conductive stuff in it and keep at it till you find it.
IF you get your hand close enough to the searchcoil, it'll "see" the electrical conductivity of your hand. In order to keep your hand from confusing the machine, hold specimens you are testing in the tips of your fingers with the palm of your hand well away from the searchcoil.
WHEN TO CHANGE THE BATTERY
Your MicroMAX Diablo is equipped with an automatic circuit so that you can always be sure you are getting top performance from it.
This special circuit ensures that the detector quits making noise before the detection circuits are degraded by the lowered battery voltage. When your MicroMAX Diablo no longer beeps at obvious targets, it is time to change the battery. If the detector beeps at large targets the battery is still OK.
If you prefer, a rechargeable Nickel-Cadmium (Ni-Cad) battery can be substituted for the standard 9 volt alkaline battery. Individual 9 volt sized Ni-Cad cells, as well as the chargers for them, are readily available at most electronic supply stores. They are installed into your detector in the same manner as non-rechargeable batteries. The sound on a Ni-Cad will be weaker than an alkaline in the beginning, but will not weaken as much with use.
CONTROLLING AUDIO VOLUME
The speaker in the MicroMAX Diablo does not have a volume control. The volume should be sufficient to accurately hear the target response sound in most environments. If more or less volume is required in your particular situation we recommend using a set of good quality headphones with built-in volume control.
Many headphones have a volume control. If the sound when passing over a large shallow metal object is uncomfortably loud, you may want to reduce the volume setting on your headset. However, if ground noise is annoyingly loud after you have adjusted the GROUND knob into the null zone, reduce the noise by setting the SENSITIVITY knob to a lower setting, not by reducing the headset volume which will be less effective.
NOTE: Headphones are optional and do not come standard with the MicroMAX Diablo.
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Operating Frequency.........................
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17.8 kHz
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Searchcoil Type................................
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Elliptical, wide scan
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Searchcoil Size..................................
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10" diameter (length)
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Cable Length....................................
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Approx. 3'
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Audio Frequency..............................
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Approx. 300 Hz to 550 Hz
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Audio Output....................................
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1 1/2" speaker and headphone jack
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Headphone Compatibility...................
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1/4" stereo plug
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Weight (may vary slightly)..................
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2.2 lbs.
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Battery Requirement..........................
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One 9 volt DC (alkaline)
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Battery Life (typical)..........................
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20 to 30 hours
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Optimum Temperature Range............
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30 to 100 degrees F
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Optimum Humidity............................
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0 to 75% R.H.
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Tuning Mode...................................
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Fast Auto Tune
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Operating Modes.............................
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All Metal AutoTune
motion required
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Pinpoint Mode.................................
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No-Motion All Metal
with no Auto Tune
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APPENDIX
METAL DETECTORS
Principle of Operation
The searchcoil of a metal detector transmits a magnet field that energizes any electrically conductive (esp. metal) or magnetic (esp. iron oxide mineral) materials in the immediate vicinity, causing these materials to radiate their own magnetic field in response. The searchcoil detects the magnetic field radiate their own magnetic field in response. The searchcoil detects the magnetic field radiated by these minerals, producing an electrical signal that is analyzed electronically and converted to an audio tone which you hear from the speaker or headphones. This audio tone has a loudness, pitch, and duration that correspond to certain characteristics of the signal, telling you something about the size, depth, and character of the material you have found. Since the signal from iron oxide minerals is often much stronger than that of metal objects (gold) you wish to find, the electronic circuitry has provision to null out or cancel signals having the characteristics of iron oxide minerals, while allowing signals from metal objects to still be heard. That's what the GROUND knob is for.
Electrical Interference
All metal detectors are subject to electrical interference from electric power lines, fluorescent lamps, computers, telephone lines carrying computer data, military submarine communications systems, longwave radionavigation signals (LORAN, OMEGA), other metal detectors, high-powered radio and radar signals, lightning storms, and other sources. Since different models of metal detectors operate at different frequencies, it is possible under a given set of conditions for one metal detector to be free of interference while another experiences sever interference. This same situation can occur with two MicroMAX Diablo detectors, since their operating frequencies vary slightly from unit to unit.
Most metal detectors will experience some electrical interference in commercial buildings, and residential homes with their proliferation of computerized electronic equipment can be just as bad. Don't judge a metal detector's sensitivity under these conditions. Once you get away from power lines and electronic equipment, interference problems will usually vanish or become a minor nuisance at worst. In those rare cases where the source of interference is more distant (sub communications, radionavigation) the problem can be minimized by keeping the searchcoil held horizontally, being careful not to tilt it.
PROSPECTING FOR GOLD
Many books have been written about gold prospecting, and there are popular magazines on the subject too. The dealer who sold you your metal detector probably has some good books or can tell you where to get them.
Learn. Read books and magazines. Talk to prospectors. Join a gold prospecting club or association. Clubs and associations know good places to go prospecting. We can't tell you everything you need to know here but we can cover some of the more important points.
- "Gold is where you find." Do your prospecting in areas where gold has already been found before.
- Many gold areas have been claimed. Learn to recognize claim markers and stay off claims unless you have the owner's permission to prospect there. Some government-owned areas (National Parks, for example) are off limits to metal detectors. The safest approach is to stay out of areas where you don't have the landowner's permission to be.
- Gold makes people crazy. Some claim owners defend their claims "very aggressively", to put it politely, so stay out of places you don't belong. Keep quiet about your gold finds. Don't lose your head over gold: it will make you the perfect victim of a con artist. Learn to recognize fool's gold, and be wise enough to know when real gold is fool's gold.
- In gold prospecting, as in most other enterprises, the road to success is paved by hard work, persistence, skill, knowledge, and enjoyment of the journey down the road. Don't expect to find a 3-ounce nugget your first weekend out prospecting. It's fine to think it COULD happen if that helps keep you motivated.
- Be safe. Learn to avoid outdoor hazards like snakes, ticks, poison oak, and dehydration. And be aware of hazards that are particular to gold mining, like poisons (mercury, cyanide), and unstable rock shafts: underground mining is dangerous business even when done commercially with proper safety equipment and procedures and no rotten timbers.
What size of gold can I find?
Metal detectors designed for gold prospecting can find nuggets about the size of a BB or smaller, on up to the huge nuggets such as the "Hand of Faith" nugget found in Australia. Metal detectors cannot find gold dust in the ground even if there is a lot of it. Most of the nuggets you find will be small ones, less than a pennyweight (1.55 weight to an ounce) because they're heavier, and because they fetch up to several times gold spot price due to their value as mineral specimens and attractiveness for natural gold jewelry. Nuggets over an ounce (31 grams) are sufficiently rare that they won't make up a large part of the gold value you dig unless you get lucky, keep at it for years, or are hunting in certain areas of Australia where large nuggets are more common.
How deep can I find gold?
The depth to which you can detect a nugget varies greatly with ground mineral conditions, and to a lesser extent your machine and your skill level. Little nuggets of several grains or less (1 grain=.064 gram) usually can't be detected deeper than 2 - 4 inches (5 - 10 cm). In some heavily mineralized areas they may not be detected even lying on the surface.
Pennyweight size nuggets can be detected up to several inches deep in most areas, and can usually be detected lying on the surface even in black sand if you're using a MicroMAX Diablo. (Other brands, not much chance).
One ounce size nuggets are detectable to a depth of several inches in nearly all ground, and in lightly mineralized ground may be detected to a depth of more than a foot (30 cm).
Where have metal detectors proven best?
Where the gold is coarse, in settings where other mining methods have not been practical or efficient (meaning the gold is still there). Most of the gold being found by metal detectors is from float gold deposits, desert gravel placer deposits, and mine dump rock piles
Where do I search for gold?
The best places to search are areas where nugget gold has previously been found. Metal detector users have been especially successful searching for "float" (eluvial) gold on hillsides below hardrock mine locations, because prior to the invention of the metal detector there was no practical way to locate and remove float gold. Placer deposits, both ancient and recent, offer good potential if they are known to contain nugget gold and not just gold dust. Wherever you search, make sure that the area is unclaimed: or, if it is claimed, obtain permission of the claim owner first. The National Gold Prospectors' Association and some other clubs own claims where their members are allowed to search. Metal detectors are not allowed in some government-owned areas such as National Parks. The safest rule is: don't search in an area unless you have obtained permission from the landowner to search there.
TYPES OF GOLD DEPOSITS
- DISSEMINATED (MICRON) GOLD. Usually pit mined and extracted with cyanide. These deposits usually don't contain detectable nuggets.
- HARDROCK (VEIN) GOLD. Usually mined by digging shafts and tunnels to follow the veins underground. In operating mines, metal detectors can be used to direct tunneling operations by locating gold which can't be seen because it's embedded in the rock. In non-operating mines, metal detectors have proven useful for scanning mine dumps (mullock heaps) for gold in rocks that were discarded by the old-time miners because they couldn't see any gold in them, rock being so opaque and whatnot. Some big gold-in-quartz specimens have been found this way.
- FLOAT (ELUVIAL) GOLD. This is gold that has been released from a hardrock ore by weathering of the rock. The gold is now in the soil below where the ore was as it was weathering, or gradually moving downhill in the soil. (If the gold reaches a stream or gully where it can be transported by water, it is no longer float gold, but placer gold - see next section.) Float gold is in the form of nuggets and gold-in-quartz large enough to be detected, and obviously no deeper than the soil itself (which is often very shallow in gold mining areas). Natural soil churning processes that occur on most hill and mountain slopes keep float gold from settling to bedrock and staying there, so even in deeper soils some gold will be close enough to the surface to be detected. Still, the larger nuggets will tend to be deeper, where you need a machine like the float gold deposits is to search around and downhill from a hardrock mine. Another common method is to search upslope from a stream at a point in the stream where very coarse gold has been found or where gold has been found downstream but not upstream.
- PLACER (ALLUVIAL) GOLD. This is gold that has been transported by water in a gully or stream. Water does several things to gold as it transports it, and knowing these things will help guide you to the best places to swing your metal detector. These are not necessarily the same places as have proven good for panning or sluicing. - Water moves gold downstream from the point it entered the stream channel. It transports tiny gold farthest and quickest. Large nuggets it moves more slowly. - Water tumbles gold together wit gravel and sand along the best of the stream, smashing large pieces into smaller pieces and wearing them down by abrasion. - Water tends to concentrate gold and other dense, heavy materials (magnetite black sand, irons crap metal, heavy gem minerals like garnet) in certain spots where water changes velocity. A sudden decrease in the velocity of the water causes the heavier materials to fall out of suspension and settle to the bottom. A sudden increase in velocity erodes lighter material from bottom sediments, leaving the heavier materials concentrated on the bottom. The place where these events occurred during high water when the most sediment is moved, are usually not the same places where those processes are happening now. - Water sorts sediments (alluvial material) by size as well as density. Good-sized nuggets are found almost exclusively in gravel, rarely in sand and silt deposits. - Water during floods tends to remove smaller and less dense materials from cracks, holes and crevices in the bedrock of the streambed, allowing larger and more dense materials (large rocks, gold nuggets) to drop in and stay. - Water during flood often moves coarse, heavy sediments out of the bottom of the stream channel and onto stream banks. Not all the gold is found in the low spots.
HOT ROCKS
Hot rocks sound off because they have a magnetic loss angle different from the soil in which they are embedded, which the ground adjustment knob is set to ignore. (You don't have to understand what magnetic loss angle means: the metal detector knows what it means, and that's all that's necessary.) There is a wide variety of hot rocks. However, nearly all will fall within one of three main categories- positive hot rocks, negative hot rocks, and electrically conductive hot rocks.
Positive hot rocks have a magnetic loss angle greater than that of the soil in which they are embedded. As you pass over them, they give a "zip" sound like that of metal - all metals have a loss angle greater than that of soil. Positive hot rocks are usually red or brown, usually near the surface, and they usually have a granular surface texture. They owe their color and magnetic properties to highly oxidized iron minerals, most often maghemite. Maghemite is a naturally occurring form of red rust, and is responsible for the red coloration and magnetic properties of most red tropical and subtropical clay soils.
Negative hot rocks have a magnetic loss angle less than that of the surrounding soil. They give a "boing" sound as you pass over them. When you sweep back and forth over a negative hot rock trying to discern it's location it will seem to move around and not be in a specific spot. If you switch to pinpoint mode in an attempt to locate its position, it will usually disappear. Negative hot rocks are usually black or bluish-black in color, may be shallow or deep, and their texture may or may not be granular. They owe their color and magnetic properties to oxygen-reduced iron minerals, of which usually dominates the magnetic properties. Their ion content is often so high that they feel distinctly heavy when you pick then up.
In some areas you will find electrically conductive hot rocks which have a high magnetic loss angle just as metals do. They always give a positive response ("zip" sound). Commonly encountered conductive minerals include copper pyrite, pyrrhotite, galena, graphite, graphitic schist, meteorites, and charcoal. Some of these may have value as mineral specimens, and some rare conductive minerals (for instance gold telluride0 are valuable ores. You may occasionally find a hot rock that seems not to fit neatly into any of these categories. Burn pyroxenite looks like a negative hot rock but can be a positive hot rock. Magnetite sometimes has sufficient electrical conductivity to act a little differently from normal.
Note that it is the response of the rock relative to the spoil in which it is found that determines whether the rock response negatively or positively. A rock which is negative in red clay soil may be positive when in a sandy gravel soil.
Positive and conductive hot rocks are usually a bigger problem than negative hot rocks, because the negative hot rocks can usually be indentified by their "boing" sound and ignored. The rocks that response positively ("zip") sound like a gold nugget and can't be ignored.
After you work a particular area for a while, you'll become familiar with the hot rocks common on that site and learn to recognize them by their appearance. Then you'll be able to ignore them or kick them out of the way.
Some sites have only negative hot rocks. Some have only positive hot rocks. Some have both.
It is rare for a hot rock to actually contain gold, but it does occasionally happen. If the signal you get from a hot rock seems louder and more "metallic" sounding than the appearance of the hot rock would seem to warrant, investigate the matter further. One very common trick is to break the rock in two roughly equal pieces and see if one piece gives a much more distinctive sound than the other. If both pieces act about the same and you don't see gold, it probably contains no gold.
There is a popular impression that hot rocks are "hot" because of brighter mineral content than the surrounding soil. There is another common belief that the ground adjust knob corrects for variations in the amount of mineralization in the soil. These ideas are incorrect. It's the type of mineral, not the amount, that determines whether or not you'll hear a hot rock, and where the GROUND knob will have to be set to silence the soil. However, the loudness of the sounds you'll hear does depend to some extent on the amount of mineralization.
"SEEING THROUGH" HOT ROCKS
Suppose you find a spot where the machine gives a "zip" sound that may be a nugget or a positive hot rock. You don't see an obvious hot rock, but you want to check things out a bit more before digging. One thing you might do is sweep back and forth over the spot, gradually rotating the GROUND knob counterclockwise until the "zip" sound disappears, and you hear the ground since you're no longer adjusted to the null of the soil. You just determined that the sound was probably a positive hot rock, since you succeeded in nulling it out. If it were a nugget or indeed any kind of meta, you wouldn't have been able to null it out since the null setting for metal doesn’t fall within the range of the control. Or, if it were a nugget underneath a hot rock, you would not have been able to find a null setting to consistently ignore them both. That spot would sound off regardless of the GROUND setting.
On any machine besides a MicroMAX Diablo, you would have to readjust the knob in order to resume searching with the soil nulled - the whole procedure is so cumbersome that even those who know how to do it rarely bother. The MicroMAX Diablo makes this procedure much easier, because you can null the hot rock out using the HOT ROCK ADJUST knob without disturbing the GROUND adjustment! What's more, in many areas most of the hot rocks are the same HOT ROCK ADJUST setting once you've nulled one hot rock, the knob is already set to null out the next one at the flip of the mode switch.
Since this procedure requires using the machine at a setting that is not fully nulled for the ground, there will be some ground noise. You have to learn to move the searchcoil evenly at a constant height to minimize the ground noise, and watch as you listen. Sometimes it helps to raise the audio threshold setting slightly and reduce the sensitivity setting.
No method is entirely foolproof. Although it is not possible to null out a nugget using either the GROUND or HOT ROCK ADJUST knob, it is possible for the sound of a nugget to be obscured by ground noise. Where the amount of iron mineral in the soil is moderate and the null setting for the hot rock is fairly close to the null setting for the soil itself, there will only be a little ground noise. With experience you'll be able to hear all but the tiniest nuggets through it. In heavily mineralized soil and with hot rock null settings that are markedly different from the soil null setting, there may be a lot of ground noise and there is greater risk of losing the sound of a gold nugget in the ground noise.
The first time you try this procedure it may seem confusing and useless. With a little practice you will get much better at it, and it will save you digging many a worthless hot rock. What's more, it may enable you to find a nugget underneath a hot rock that everyone else has missed because they had no way to see through the hot rock.
WARRANTY SERVICE
Your Tesoro metal detector is covered by a Limited Lifetime Warranty, the terms of which are listed below. If your metal detector should require service, you may return it to the Tesoro factory at the address below.
LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may have other rights which vary from state to state.
This instrument is warranted to be free of defects in material and workmanship as long as it is owned by the original consumer purchaser. This warranty is not transferable, and is valid only if the warranty registration card has been completed and mailed within 10 days of purchase.
During the first two years, TESORO will, at its option, repair or replace any instrument covered by this warranty, without charge, except for transportation charges, at its factory in Prescott, Arizona, or at one of its authorized repair centers.
This warranty excludes batteries, damage caused by leaky batteries, cable breakage due to flexing on body mount units, and wear of the searchcoil housing. Also excluded are instruments which have been abused, altered, or repaired by an unauthorized party.